In the distance, among the pines on the hillside, the bellow of a moose can be heard. It rises above the murmur of the water, disturbed only now and then by the sound of a rod cutting through the air in the half-light. On this Norwegian night in July—a night that is not really night, only the threat of it—I comb the waters of this magnificent pool. Meanwhile, on every drift, I play with the line between the fingers of my left hand, trying to sense the rhythm that my eyes cannot clearly see.
“Have faith.” I tell myself again and again, trying to connect my mind with nature, pushing away all the questions that forever stalk the salmon angler. It isn’t easy. Yet, at dawn, the mind seems to become less rational and to perceive stimuli in a different way. That’s why I like fishing at night. The sounds, the temperature, the light, and my rod seem to form a kind of mantra that keeps me awake and focused. Step by step, cast by cast, waiting.
In that hypnotic state where everything seems to flow to the rhythm of a steady beat, the take is a discordant note. High and deep, it runs through every neuron of your nervous system. After that, there is only noise. Chaos. Sometimes, the Gaula lets you feel as if you’re touching the sky with your fingertips. Other times, your dream slips away and there’s nothing you can do to stop it.
GAULA, the river of golden waters
In the ears of any salmon angler, the word Gaula resonates with special force. It is synonymous with greatness: a wild, untamed river of pure, golden waters, where thousands of stories, anecdotes, and legends of giant salmon are lost. Not without reason—the number of salmon over 20 lb caught each year in its waters—fish over 30, even 40 lb being far from rare—leaves no doubt that we are facing one of the best rivers in the world to pursue such a challenge.
Perhaps for this reason, as early as the 19th century, the British bourgeoisie chose this mythical Norwegian river for their summer season, laying the foundations of a thriving fishing-tourism industry—one that the Gaula still sustains today—and of the roots of the Norwegian Flyfishers Club.
The Gaula is a completely wild river, free of dams or hydroelectric exploitation; one of the few that remain in Norway and, sadly, in Europe. Along its just over 150 kilometers, it runs through green valleys with steep hills and mountains, carpeted in dense conifer forests. On its journey toward the Trondheim Fjord, its golden waters flow past traditional Norwegian farms, which farther downstream give way to fields and crops.
Strong in character and considerable in width, its pools are smooth and even, offering long drifts that captivate and hook the fly angler.
As a result of its entirely natural state—being an unregulated river—the Gaula undergoes large and abrupt changes in flow, a consequence of the climate at these latitudes. Having access to pools that fish well at different water levels and are spread along the entire river is a rare guarantee, and one that the NFC provides across more than 13 kilometers of pools distributed throughout the river.
A river to earn your doctorate
Despite the healthy population of fish that the Gaula still holds today, we must not be carried away by expectations. The Gaula is a capricious river—tremendously technical, tactical, and even physical. Let us not forget that we are in Norway, land of the midnight sun, and long days will often be the norm if we want to find the salmon of our dreams.
Few situations are more maddening than combing and recombing a pool in which dozens of salmon—sometimes of truly incredible size—move endlessly. Meanwhile, your mind spins hypothesis after hypothesis, all of them dismissed with contempt by these very special fish. Patience and perseverance are key to success. This is not Iceland; we haven’t come to catch ten salmon a day. This is the Gaula. Visualize that fish—your fish—on every cast, and go after it.
Despite everything, the Gaula is a river where you can touch the sky. An incomparable canvas on which to draw your dreams. The river where many have been able to gaze upon the fish of a lifetime, and where many others will continue searching. While it comes, we share experiences, laughter, and unique moments with the friends we meet on the river, because above all, salmon fishing is what you live between fish and fish.